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Where changes seldom come in pairs

Few make it out here, you will either have to rely on air connections, leaving you almost stranded for a week, before you can fly back to Nouakchott, or drive with your own 4WD. Should you make the effort, you will not regret it. Tidjikja is so much a world set apart, and according to reliable sources, true slavery still exists here,- "white" Mauritanians hold "black" Mauritanians as slaves, even if the Mauritanian governments have taken serious measures to stop this tradition.


Tidjikja was founded in 1680 by the Moorish tribe Idaw'ali, which was driven out of the more prosperous Adrar region. Tidjikja was offering enough for a new settlement, and palmeraies were planted, and a distinct culture developed. Through the village, a riverbed is running, seldom carrying any water, but occasionally it can be flooding.
While many of the houses of Tidjikja are falling apart, there are areas offering great views. The houses are built from dressed stone, kept together by clay or clad in clay. The roofs are flat, and constructed from palm- trunks. The rooms are very narrow, and oriented to inner courtyards. Houses are ornamented by geometrical designs, and gargoyles on the roofs.

Eat and Sleep
Tidjikja has a basic rest hourse, or you could camp out or get help from locals. Food can be bought in the market.

Weekly flights to and from Nouakchott. 4WDs could be set up for driving south or north to the Adrar. This, however, is terribly expensive.

Going Next
700 km southeast: Oualata
25 km northwest: Rachid
400 km northwest: Atar

By Tore Kjeilen