DONGOLA:
Green and pleasant
It will of course be a surprise to most, but the settlements along the Sudanese Nile, are arid. It remains a mystery to me how this river Nile can be feeding more than 60 million Egyptians, but only 10 million Sudanese. Nothing of the water in the Nile enters Egypt without covering thousands of kilometres of the Sudan. Dongola is a great change from the incredible modesty of the north. Date palms fill a large area, and watching the boys cutting down the date harvest in September has become a tourist's classic. Food and eating will be a wise activity when in Dongola. Fruit from the colourful fruit and vegetable market, or eating out at one of the fish restaurants, will prepare you for either going south or going north.
Eat and Sleep
Some few restaurants, but the food can be terrific. Simple but OK lokandas for sleeping.
Transportation
Bus, shared taxis, or getting on a lorry (you have to pay of course). Most recommended is travelling with the river steamer, running from Dongola, in southern direction. There are flights to Khartoum, but these are very irregular and normally full booked.
